Match of the week

Cannelloni and Refosco

Cannelloni and Refosco

When did you last see cannelloni on a menu? It was one of my favourite dishes when I was growing up then it seemed to vanish into the mists of time so it’s good to see it back at the boys from the Clove Club’s new restaurant Luca.

It’s quite a fancy version, mind you, filled with calves’ head ragu (‘course it is) with marjoram and artistic slicks of white sauce and tomato sauce - at the same time lighter and richer than the version I remember from my local trat.

It needed a wine with fresh acidity and got that in spades from a delicious 2013 Refosco Specogna from Friuli they have on their short but appealing wine by the glass list.

Valvona & Crolla and Wilde Wines stock the 2012 at £19.95 and £19.99 respectively. If you want to know more about Refosco consult Jancis Robinson et al's excellent Wine Grapes.

Chicken liver crostini and Rosso di Montalcino

Chicken liver crostini and Rosso di Montalcino

One of the most striking things about my trip to Tuscany last week was the reminder of how good young red wines are with Tuscan food - right the way through the meal, not just with the main course.

It was certainly true of the first lunch we had when we arrived which was co-hosted by the Bolgheri winery Poggio al Tesoro and San Polo in Montalcino, both owned by the Allegrini family.

I expected Poggio al Tesoro’s fragrant Solosole Vermentino to match the crostini that were handed round at the beginning of the meal - and it did - but not quite as well as the elegant 2014 San Polo Rosso di Montalcino which sailed effortlessly through the tomato, mushroom and (most challenging of all) chicken liver toppings. It also paired really well with a creamy dish of fettucine, zucchini, pancetta and robiola cheese - as did the 2008 vintage of the Solosole which I was also tempted to make my match of the week.

This would apply equally well to youthful chiantis or any other young sangioveses. It’s the acidity that makes them work so well - and the fact that, like white wines, they’re served at cellar temperature.

The San Polo Rosso di Montalcino costs £16.99 from slurp.co.uk and £18.95 at Eton Vintners.

I travelled to Tuscany with Liberty Wines

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